In a children’s book I have yet to write, Father Christmas flies his drone over Germany’s Christmas markets, hell-bent on finding the most magical for a romantic weekend break with Mrs Christmas.
Nuremberg? “Hmm, quite crowded,” thinks Father Christmas. Berlin? “Yowsers, so big!” he eliminates, thinking of his feet. On the verge of calling it a day, he decides to set the drone to one last mission. And there it is… a vision of cobblestone streets and magnificent timber-framed townhouses floodlit by firelight. “Aaaah…” sighs Father Christmas, before punching the air victoriously. “Esslingen. Bingo!”
Unlike many of Europe’s festive events – so often characterised by Mariah on a loop – there’s something special about medieval Esslingen, just 15km from Stuttgart in south-west Germany. It’s transporting me back to a simpler time of rousing folk music, agile acrobats, and exotic spice in the air.
Time-travel experiences at Esslingen Christmas market
Experiential rather than purely commercial, Esslingen Christmas market is in fact two markets rolled into one. Alongside a traditional market with all the festive gifts and foods you’d expect, there’s also a medieval market, where every spellbinding detail recalls life 600 years ago.
I can see fire-lit stages for minstrels, musicians and storytellers. A juggler mischievously named ‘Master Fleapit’. A performer on stilts meeting and greeting the crowd.
And that’s not all. I’m watching old-school craftsmen at work – from blacksmiths, basket makers and bakers, to potters, glassblowers and weavers – many inviting passers-by to have a go.
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On one standout evening that promises to be captivating, there’s even going to be a lantern parade on 19 December from the marketplace up the hill to the castle which overlooks town.
Unique festive experiences
For now, my personal dilemma is whether to opt for a dip in the medieval market’s hot tub or hold out my hands for a palmreading by Athena, the market’s resident fortune teller.
Tempting as it is to sit starkers in the middle of the marketplace, I take the mystic option and emerge from the tent 20 minutes later, encouraged by her optimistic predictions.
My favourite is that I’m going to live until I’m 98.
And if that’s not a cue to head over to the traditional Christmas market to gorge on more cheese, I don’t know what is.
A taste of Germany’s foodie traditions at the Christmas Market
I love weaving in and out amongst the locals indulging in all manner of winter-warmer goodies.. There’s ‘Stockbrot’ -dough twisted around a stick. Alongside the traditional hot chestnuts, doughy ‘Apfelkringel’ rings, and every conceivable variety of ‘Wurst’ (sausage).
There’s plenty of foodie delights to take home or buy as gifts, too – . ‘stollen’ – traditional Christmas bread with dried fruits and sometimes marzipan, lots of cheeses, and cured sausages hung up like candy sticks.
Gifts to buy at Esslingen Christmas Market
I also have my eye on some wonderful Christmas gifts to elevate this year’s stockings.
There are the ubiquitous gifts you see all over – from delicate wooden tree decorations to gingerbread love hearts announcing ‘ich liebe dich’ (I love you), ‘Fröhliche Weihnachten’, (Happy Christmas), or something cheekier. But there are also handmade gifts I haven’t seen before, from cute ceramic houses and glowing paper stars to biscuits from a dog bakery.
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Since the German Christmas market experience isn’t complete without a warm mug of Glühwein (mulled red or white wine), I get one of these too. The taste is impressive, as is the fact there isn’t a plastic cup in sight, only reusable ones that you return to the vendor.
Cold hands wrapped around a warm mug is a moment to stand still and take it all in.
Twinkling light is festooned from building to building. Each stall’s rooftop snow scene vies to outdo the next. The belltower’s Glockenspiel is chiming out its melody.
Among all the festive faces, one white-bearded visitor looks the most satisfied of all. “Bingo”, I’m pretty sure I heard him chuckle.
Come in January for Germany’s quieter winter charms
All is not lost if you (or Father Christmas) don’t get here in time for the Christmas market. There are plenty of ways to enjoy south-west Germany after the throngs have gone.
In the afterglow of the Christmas market, Esslingen whispers the quieter side of winter.
There are churches to admire inside and out in this former place of pilgrimage, as well as a distinctly Italian tone: enough canals to merit the nickname Little Venice and Germany’s second oldest stone bridge – Esslingen’s answer to Florence’s Ponte Vecchio.
Warm up at a Kessler tasting to try the wine said to be Germany’s first sparkling variety. Inspired by the Veuve Clicquot champagne house in France, Georg Christian von Kessler returned to Germany and made his own exceptional bubbles.
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For a solid restaurant, try out Mattis. Its speciality is Maultaschen, flavoursome parcels a little like ravioli filled with sage pesto and roasted walnuts.
If you want to explore the region, Stuttgart is only 10 minutes by train from Esslingen.
Don’t miss the ‘Christmas Garden’ lights trail at Wilhelma Botanical Gardens and post-Christmas relaxation and 1950s charm at the Mineralbad Berg thermal waters spa.
Esslingen Christmas Market runs until 22 December.
